Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Kale and White Bean Soup--Soup as an Improvisation

 The jazz pianist Keith Jarrett has spent a large portion of his career performing solo concerts, sitting alone at a piano and spontaneously improvising, allowing the music and his ear to take the music where inspiration leads. Of course, it helps to have formidable technique, perfect pitch, and a restless musical imagination.
A musician friend of mine has told me that he reads these dispatches but not necessarily for the recipes since, as he said, “I pretty much throw things together.” He is classically trained and is also a skilled jazz player well versed in improvisation. I am not sure if one’s musical abilities completely transfer to the kitchen but I understand. Good cooking, like music, has balance, dynamics and shadings (of flavor), a range of contrasts, and when you’re lucky, it should seem effortless like a natural extension of yourself.
Cooking aspires to this degree of spontaneity, of being inspired by ingredients and having the technique to make what you can imagine.
Soup is the perfect ‘food” improvisation. I based this on ingredients I found at the farmers market. What follows is a “transcription” of my improvisation, a recipe. You can choose to follow it or change some things and create according to your inspiration.
For instance, I used dried white beans but you could just as easily use canned white beans. It would shorten the cooking time. You would drain the beans and add them after the vegetables have softened.  Don’t want to use beans?  Use diced potatoes, (about 1½ pounds, peeled and diced) cooking them along with the vegetables. If you do either of these, you might need less water than what is called for in the recipe; the extra liquid is because of the use of dried beans. That is an easy adjustment.
I used Spanish chorizo, but you could substitute another kind of sausage. The Portuguese version of the soup would use linguica, a smoked, cured sausage that would be cooked in the same way as the Spanish chorizo. Any sausage will work in this recipe.
Or keep it vegetarian.
You could use spinach instead of the kale but you would add it to the soup only a few minutes before serving since it needs less cooking time than the 15 minutes that kale requires.
I know that this seems like a lot to think about just to make soup but everyone makes such decisions when they are cooking.  In their way they’re similar to of all of the split second decisions made by an improvising musician.  Soup is very forgiving.  Adjustments are easy to make and in the end you end up with something deeply satisfying and personal, which is what a good improvisation should be.
Is it any surprise that French chefs often refer to the stove as “the piano?”
Like any soup recipe, this makes plenty.

 Kale and White Bean Soup
1 cup dried white beans (such as Great Northern or cannellini)
       (or one 28 ounce can of white beans)
1½ cups chopped onion or leeks
1½ cups sliced carrots
½ cup Spanish chorizo, thinly sliced (or ½ pound sausage, sliced ¼” thick)
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
One 28-ounce can whole plum tomatoes, crushed by hand
4 cups water
8 leaves curly kale (will yield about 8 cups, chopped, loosely packed)
Salt and ground black pepper
3 to 4 cups cold water
Olive oil, for cooking
Grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish (optional)
1. If you are using dried beans, you will want to “speed soak” them to shorten the cooking time. Place the beans into a bowl and add enough boiling water to cover. Set aside and let the beans sit for about an hour. In that time, you can do all of the preparation of the other ingredients.
2. Place a 6 Quart Dutch oven onto the stove over medium-high heat. When hot, swirl 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil into the pot. Add the onions/leeks, carrots, and chorizo to the pot and sauté for about 5 minutes, adjusting the heat as needed. Season the vegetables with some salt and pepper. (If you are using a sausage other than Spanish chorizo such as an uncooked sausage, add it to the pot and cook for 3 to 4 minutes and then add the onion/leeks and carrots and continue cooking for another five minutes). After the onions/leeks have begun to soften, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
3. Add the crushed tomatoes to the pot and stir. Drain the soaking beans and add them to the pot, along with the water; do not add additional salt at this point as it will toughen the outside of the beans as they cook. (If you are using potatoes instead of the beans, add them into the soup, and season with some salt). Cover and let the soup come to a boil, then reduce the heat to a steady simmer. Stir the soup from time to time as it cooks. Cook until the beans are soft; check one or two by squeezing them; they should give with no resistance. This will take about an hour or longer, depending on the presoaking. (If you are using canned beans, drain them, then add them to the soup after the carrots are tender).
4. At this point, the soup will be ready for the kale. Strip the kale leaves from the stems. Discard the stems and tear the leaves into small pieces; there should be about 8 cups, loosely packed. Add the kale to the soup, along with some salt. Cover and cook until the kale is tender, about 15 minutes. If the soup is too thick, add additional water. Taste the soup for seasoning. Garnish each serving with freshly grated Parmesan cheese if you choose, serve and savor. And then go back for more.
Any leftover soup can be stored in containers and frozen for use at a later time.


Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Swordfish with Pancetta Vinaigrette

                                                                  “Who are you?”
                                                 “I’m fine, thanks. Who are you?”
                             “I’m fine, too, but you can’t come in unless you give the password…
                                            I give you three guesses…..It’s the name of a fish.”
                                                                    “Is it Mary?”*

One Dude. One pan. One Meal.
I rarely talk about other cookbooks but having just riffed on its title I feel it deserves a mention. The book is Two Dudes One Pan, by Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. The concept behind the book is that you don’t need a lot of equipment in order to cook great food. The book is filled with recipes that can be made in one pan, if you cook in the proper order. It’s a method that all chefs use but often utilizing more than one pan. The book comes from their personal experience as caterers where they were often short on space and equipment. I bought the book for oldest daughter’s southern beau, who doesn’t enjoy cooking as much as his better half. But on some nights he’s on dinner duty. And that no longer means making a phone call.
Shook and Dotolo are no longer short on space or equipment. They are chef/owners of Animal and Two if By Sea as well as partners with Ludo Lefebvre at Trois Mec and the recently opened Petit Trois, all highly successful and highly acclaimed restaurants in Los Angeles. No easy feat.
This recipe fits into the same concept. Everything can be prepared using only one pan. And this simple and quick sauce isn’t limited only to fish, but is good with chicken, pork, or turkey cutlets.
Pancetta is fairly widely available. I used pancetta that’s packaged already diced. You can use any type of acid, not only Sherry vinegar. Any vinegar or the juice from a lemon or lime will work.
If you have all of your ingredients prepped and ready- your mise en place- dinner will follow in short order.

Swordfish with Pancetta Vinaigrette
For two servings
Two 6 ounce swordfish steaks
3 Tablespoons diced pancetta
2 Tablespoons minced shallot or onion
1 or 2 teaspoons minced garlic
12- 14 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 Tablespoon Sherry vinegar
1 Tablespoon chopped parsley
salt and ground black pepper
extra virgin olive oil

1. Place a large sauté pan onto the stove over medium-high heat. When hot, swirl 2 to 3 tablespoon olive oil into the pan. Add the pancetta and sauté until browned, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the cooked pancetta from the pan and drain it on paper towels. Drain and reserve all but two tablespoons of oil from the pan.
2. Season the swordfish with salt and ground black pepper. Place the fish into the pan and sauté for 3 or 4 minutes, depending on the thickness, then turn and cook for an additional 4 to 5 minutes. (Cooking times will vary. A 1” thick piece of fish takes 10 minutes total cooking time for well done so adjust the time to suit the thickness of your fish and your favored degree of doneness).
3. Remove the swordfish from the pan and set it aside, covered.
4. Let the pan cool for a moment or two, then return it to the heat. Add a swirl of olive oil to the pan. Add the shallot or onion and briefly sauté for about a minute. Add the cherry tomatoes to the pan; season with salt and pepper. Cook for a minute or two to soften the tomatoes. Add the garlic and cooked pancetta to the pan and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds. Check the pan; there should be about 3 tablespoons olive oil in the pan; if not add a little more. Add the vinegar to the pan, stir, and add the parsley. Remove pan from heat.
4. Spoon some of the sauce onto each plate. Top with the swordfish and divide the remaining sauce, spooning it over the fish. Serve.

                 *It should need no introduction. From the Marx Brothers classic, “Horsefeathers.”   
                                                         (“I think I got it! Is it swordfish?”)

("or with turkey......")